Consumer Research

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by george » Tue May 07 9:38 pm

So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Tue May 07 9:39 pm

george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Tue May 07 9:43 pm

Kelly Red wrote:
Tue May 07 9:36 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 5:19 pm
fightclub30 wrote:
Tue May 07 4:27 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 3:33 pm
I think I am ready to give up on my mower. The engine runs like a champ but the self propel feature goes in and out. I am sick of taking it apart and trying to fix it.

So I always thought my next mower would be a Honda. I was curious about electric mowers. But after truly reading up on the EGO electric, I think I might pull the trigger on the e mower. Sounds like the newer model has plenty of power and battery life. And my kids are JUST about mowing age so a lighter mower would help.

What the hell.
A Neighbor has one, it is eerily quiet. To the point of "is he even cutting grass? Or just pushing his mower around the yard..."

I asked him about it, and he opted for a slightly cheaper one with smaller batteries so he cannot mow the entire yard without a re-charge or swapping batteries. So maybe look at one with multiple batteries, or a large AmpHour service - I think they make 6Ah batteries, maybe larger now.
They now make a 7.5 Ah battery which people say will cut 1/3 acre with self propel. I happen to have 1/3 acre so I am planning to get that mower and I will get an extra battery if I find the battery isn’t lasting through the job.

OR I can stop to trim weeds half way through.

I have to say I like the idea of a quiet mower.

My only thing is they better continue to make batteries to fit this mower for a long time. I am not looking to replace it when the batteries die. I once had a battery powered drill that I had to replace because they stopped making batteries. THAT is f*** annoying.
I'd start to do some serious consumer research on batteries and how long a mower model has been on the market already. Changing the battery style is now a very common tactic to get you to have to replace an item. That's what happened to our last battery mower, after 4 years the battery wouldn't hold a charge. When I tried to replace the battery, that particular type was no longer sold. Checking other websites had the battery at a simply outrageous price, I'm talking half the cost of a new mower! Plus it wasn't being sold by the actual manufacture so we weren't sure the battery was genuine. It was frustrating because the mower itself still worked great.
So be warned. They just aren't being built to last anymore, and that's directly from the company making them. They want to force you to replace it.
This is where rage begins with me. Even if you improve the battery by 100 fold there is no reason you can’t make it work using the same connection. AA batteries haven’t changed shape in decades, mower batteries don’t have to either.

You can’t claim to be eco friendly and then make products useless after a few years through intentional design change of a key part.

Some company needs to standardize these things.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by OkComputer » Tue May 07 9:52 pm

Maybe Ryobi guarantees they won't change their battery connection. They have made the batteries on their power tools backward compatible for decades, and I know they make mowers. I don't know anything about the quality.....but if it's like their power tools then it's a step down from the top dogs but good enough for most.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Tue May 07 10:13 pm

OkComputer wrote:
Tue May 07 9:52 pm
Maybe Ryobi guarantees they won't change their battery connection. They have made the batteries on their power tools backward compatible for decades, and I know they make mowers. I don't know anything about the quality.....but if it's like their power tools then it's a step down from the top dogs but good enough for most.
The Ryobi 40 volt battery for their lawn equipment is different than that of their hand tools that use the 18V battery.

Based on the rate Home Depot is selling the battery stuff today, compared to 5-6 years ago when the stuff came out, I would say you shouldn't have to worry about the batteries being obsolete for some time. Thats a lot of people to piss off and why all of the tool companies standardized their connections many years ago. Battery technology will change possibly...more than likely, but the connections should stay the same.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Tue May 07 10:17 pm

Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 9:39 pm
george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.
Correct. All batteries have a shelf life, used or unused. That being said, the EGO batteries have a 3 year warranty (unheard of) and they will last unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity or performance.

In 10 years I hope that there is a chemical you put on your lawn that keeps it green all year and that it never grows OR I can order a grass mowing on Amazon Prime and it is done by a drone or something...
"Hard work will beat talent, if talent doesn't work hard"
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This quote was written on the chalkboard in a lockeroom in the old Ralph Engelstad arena my Squirt team used the day after the Gophers used it and came into the game ranked #1 in the nation and lost 6-1 to a second rate Whioux team.

Overhead on SiouxSports.com - Why does every thread always turn into a "Gopher" thread? Is there a secret infatuation with them?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Tue May 07 10:25 pm

MNGophers29 wrote:
Tue May 07 10:17 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 9:39 pm
george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.
Correct. All batteries have a shelf life, used or unused. That being said, the EGO batteries have a 3 year warranty (unheard of) and they will last unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity or performance.

In 10 years I hope that there is a chemical you put on your lawn that keeps it green all year and that it never grows OR I can order a grass mowing on Amazon Prime and it is done by a drone or something...
It's called Nexturf. :D
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Tue May 07 10:37 pm

MNGophers29 wrote:
Tue May 07 10:17 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 9:39 pm
george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.
Correct. All batteries have a shelf life, used or unused. That being said, the EGO batteries have a 3 year warranty (unheard of) and they will last unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity or performance.

In 10 years I hope that there is a chemical you put on your lawn that keeps it green all year and that it never grows OR I can order a grass mowing on Amazon Prime and it is done by a drone or something...
Have you seen the new field at TCF Bank Stadium. No mowing and always green...except the end zones.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Cowgirl » Tue May 07 11:57 pm

Get some goats. Eco friendly. Sorta quiet, and if you do it right can manufacture new models as needed. :mrgreen:

Of course you might have to move.... :lol:

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Wed May 08 6:33 am

Cowgirl wrote:
Tue May 07 11:57 pm
Get some goats. Eco friendly. Sorta quiet, and if you do it right can manufacture new models as needed. :mrgreen:

Of course you might have to move.... :lol:
My association won’t allow it.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Wed May 08 7:07 am

Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 10:37 pm
MNGophers29 wrote:
Tue May 07 10:17 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 9:39 pm
george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.
Correct. All batteries have a shelf life, used or unused. That being said, the EGO batteries have a 3 year warranty (unheard of) and they will last unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity or performance.

In 10 years I hope that there is a chemical you put on your lawn that keeps it green all year and that it never grows OR I can order a grass mowing on Amazon Prime and it is done by a drone or something...
Have you seen the new field at TCF Bank Stadium. No mowing and always green...except the end zones.
I have seen it on TV and I will admit, I don't know much about it, but is it real grass and if so, is the dirt heated like Target Field?
"Hard work will beat talent, if talent doesn't work hard"
Doug Woog - 1990

This quote was written on the chalkboard in a lockeroom in the old Ralph Engelstad arena my Squirt team used the day after the Gophers used it and came into the game ranked #1 in the nation and lost 6-1 to a second rate Whioux team.

Overhead on SiouxSports.com - Why does every thread always turn into a "Gopher" thread? Is there a secret infatuation with them?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Cowgirl » Wed May 08 7:08 am

Bertogliat wrote:
Wed May 08 6:33 am
Cowgirl wrote:
Tue May 07 11:57 pm
Get some goats. Eco friendly. Sorta quiet, and if you do it right can manufacture new models as needed. :mrgreen:

Of course you might have to move.... :lol:
My association won’t allow it.
Hence the statement about having to move. ;)

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Wed May 08 8:44 am

MNGophers29 wrote:
Wed May 08 7:07 am
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 10:37 pm
MNGophers29 wrote:
Tue May 07 10:17 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 9:39 pm
george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.
Correct. All batteries have a shelf life, used or unused. That being said, the EGO batteries have a 3 year warranty (unheard of) and they will last unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity or performance.

In 10 years I hope that there is a chemical you put on your lawn that keeps it green all year and that it never grows OR I can order a grass mowing on Amazon Prime and it is done by a drone or something...
Have you seen the new field at TCF Bank Stadium. No mowing and always green...except the end zones.
I have seen it on TV and I will admit, I don't know much about it, but is it real grass and if so, is the dirt heated like Target Field?
It is not grass. Artificial turf. But it does have a heating system to keep the turf thawed in cold weather. Not super necessary for the college season, but it should help the Vikings when they ask for a new stadium again in 15 years.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by gopherguy06 » Wed May 08 8:50 am

I was looking at the Ego too, but the bigger one with two batteries. I like that the batteries can be used as a snow blower and other devices too

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by fightclub30 » Wed May 08 9:15 am

MNGophers29 wrote:
Tue May 07 10:17 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Tue May 07 9:39 pm
george wrote:
Tue May 07 9:38 pm
So the lesson is get a couple spare batteries when they're on sale.
Yes, but even when unused they don’t last forever.
Correct. All batteries have a shelf life, used or unused. That being said, the EGO batteries have a 3 year warranty (unheard of) and they will last unattended for a minimum of 10 years without damaging capacity or performance.

In 10 years I hope that there is a chemical you put on your lawn that keeps it green all year and that it never grows OR I can order a grass mowing on Amazon Prime and it is done by a drone or something...
I have a lifetime warranty on my Ridgid batteries. I have replaced 2 of them... Walk into HD, say the battery won't hold a charge, they look up my registration and I walk out with a new one. Okay, once a new one and once a "refurbished" one, but both have worked great since.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Handyman » Wed May 08 11:22 am

I have a lower end battery powered...I have gotten my money's worth out of it and since I also have a few other items by the same brand (Greenworks) I have 3 batteries so it works out well. (the blower is really really good)

Perhaps after this summer I will upgrade to a better battery powered unit but for now it does great so I am not too worried about it :)
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Kelly Red » Wed May 15 5:52 pm

Cowgirl wrote:
Wed May 08 7:08 am
Bertogliat wrote:
Wed May 08 6:33 am
Cowgirl wrote:
Tue May 07 11:57 pm
Get some goats. Eco friendly. Sorta quiet, and if you do it right can manufacture new models as needed. :mrgreen:

Of course you might have to move.... :lol:
My association won’t allow it.
Hence the statement about having to move. ;)
I just saw this and it made me laugh. Oh good lord, don't get goats, they are more trouble then they're worth :censored:
They are very intelligent and very naughty. They need to be entertained or they will find it themselves. Usually by climbing on things or escaping. My grandparents has goats, those 4 goats caused more problems then all the other farm animals combined.



They were cute though :biggrin2:
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Jane Fonda » Thu May 16 10:46 pm

Kelly Red wrote:
Wed May 15 5:52 pm
Cowgirl wrote:
Wed May 08 7:08 am
Bertogliat wrote:
Wed May 08 6:33 am
Cowgirl wrote:
Tue May 07 11:57 pm
Get some goats. Eco friendly. Sorta quiet, and if you do it right can manufacture new models as needed. :mrgreen:

Of course you might have to move.... :lol:
My association won’t allow it.
Hence the statement about having to move. ;)
I just saw this and it made me laugh. Oh good lord, don't get goats, they are more trouble then they're worth :censored:
They are very intelligent and very naughty. They need to be entertained or they will find it themselves. Usually by climbing on things or escaping. My grandparents has goats, those 4 goats caused more problems then all the other farm animals combined.



They were cute though :biggrin2:
And they will eat anything. Anything.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by davescharf » Wed Jul 03 10:01 pm

We're looking at installing an irrigation system in our yard. I got quotes for a Hunter system with 16-18 heads and another for a Toro with 21-23. It led to a couple questions

1. Is there a big difference between the systems in general?
2. Is the fact that one quote includes a lifetime warranty on the Poly Pipe a big deal? The other quote says nothing about it. Other warranty stuff seems about the same.
3. It seems like more heads would give you more customization for things like narrow sides of the yard, garden, landscaping etc. but maybe I'm not thinking about it right

One of the quotes is about 15% than the other, but at least the guy with the higher quote wanted to meet and talk to me about my needs. The other guy just showed up one day and then mailed me a quote, so that leads to questions about how they handle their customers.

Any thoughts anyone has would be appreciated.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Thirty-Four » Mon Jul 08 11:40 pm

I'm planning on buying a reciprocating saw to take care of various roots that are making my privacy fence install pretty near impossible. Looking to see if anyone has a recommendation on a high powered, preferable cordless model. I'm sure I'll find a lot of uses for the tool, but for now, I need the power.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Mon Jul 08 11:43 pm

Milwaukee and DeWalt, from my knowledge. Just don't buy from the big fat catalog company. You'll be overpaying.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bladepuller » Tue Jul 09 9:07 am

Tough to get long lasting power from cordless recip. saw.
When my old powerful Porter Cable (so old it had an Allen headed bolt to retain the blade) stopped "stroking", Iwent shopping. Bought a corded, one hand to grip. Kobalt @ Lowes. I want to say right around $60. I have used it a bunch and I like it being able to be held amd operated with one hand. I then hold the work with my left and keep it from bouncing all over when cutting. Enough variable speed power for what ever I'm doing so far
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by fightclub30 » Tue Jul 09 9:38 am

davescharf wrote:
Wed Jul 03 10:01 pm
We're looking at installing an irrigation system in our yard. I got quotes for a Hunter system with 16-18 heads and another for a Toro with 21-23. It led to a couple questions

1. Is there a big difference between the systems in general?
2. Is the fact that one quote includes a lifetime warranty on the Poly Pipe a big deal? The other quote says nothing about it. Other warranty stuff seems about the same.
3. It seems like more heads would give you more customization for things like narrow sides of the yard, garden, landscaping etc. but maybe I'm not thinking about it right

One of the quotes is about 15% than the other, but at least the guy with the higher quote wanted to meet and talk to me about my needs. The other guy just showed up one day and then mailed me a quote, so that leads to questions about how they handle their customers.

Any thoughts anyone has would be appreciated.
My system was installed by the previous home owner and you can tell; mix-and-match parts and pieces, poor coverage, inefficient design, etc.

The first 2 companies I had come out and do repairs, just repaired the system exactly how it was and walked away. The price was right at the time, they didn't question the work, and I just assumed it was my fault the grass was struggling.

The next year, I contacted a company and they came out and said if I kept fixing it how it was I would just end up with the same problems over and over. He took the time to talk to me and walk me through an option of slowly upgrading and fixing the system over a few years to spread out the cost. My lawn looks so much better now than at any point before. He stands behind his work, moved a few heads at no cost, and wants to make sure I am happy.

I'd go with the guy who was more engaging and will to work with you and answer questions.

We have more heads and zones than we did before, but use less water because some thought was put into it now. Rather than just running a bunch of Hunter-PGPs scattered about the yard like the previous home-owner did.

In my experience most of the warranties on stuff like that aren't worth much. Lots of exclusions and things they do not cover - Carrier lost my business because of stupid warranty exclusions.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Tue Jul 09 9:58 am

Thirty-Four wrote:
Mon Jul 08 11:40 pm
I'm planning on buying a reciprocating saw to take care of various roots that are making my privacy fence install pretty near impossible. Looking to see if anyone has a recommendation on a high powered, preferable cordless model. I'm sure I'll find a lot of uses for the tool, but for now, I need the power.
Do you have any other cordless tools? That generally helps decide as you can use multiple tools for each battery.

You can get plenty of power from today’s cordless tools. The battery technology is such that it isn’t the issue it was even a couple years ago. You can also upgrade batteries with larger amp hour ones that last forever.

I am a Ridgid guy for obvious reasons, own almost all of their tools, but if I ever had to change it up, I would go for Milwaukee. My Dad has all of their tools and I am super impressed with their 18V system. He has a grass trimmer that runs for hours it seems on a single charge. He has their cordless recip saw too.

My experience is that unless you are doing a big demolition project with one, cordless would be the way to go. I have a corded one because back when I bought mine, you could only get the cordless recip in a big combo pack, now you can buy it individually.
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This quote was written on the chalkboard in a lockeroom in the old Ralph Engelstad arena my Squirt team used the day after the Gophers used it and came into the game ranked #1 in the nation and lost 6-1 to a second rate Whioux team.

Overhead on SiouxSports.com - Why does every thread always turn into a "Gopher" thread? Is there a secret infatuation with them?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Tue Jul 09 10:42 am

I bought a Milwuakee reciprocating saw (corded) in new condition at a pawn shop a few years ago for less than $100 and it works like a champ. But it is corded.

Probably my only Pawn Shop purchase. But I needed a recip saw for a demo project and didn't want to pay a lot.

For a saw like this, that you aren't going to use much, I would recommend buying corded unless you share batteries with other tools. If you buy a battery powered saw and don't use it more than 1-2 times per year, you're going to have to buy new batteries eventually (which aren't cheap) and it won't pay for the number of uses.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Handyman » Tue Jul 09 12:44 pm

Back when I worked at a Pawn Shop we had hundreds of cordless tools, top of the line stuff barely used. Since our clientele wasnt gonna use it I sold it on Ebay for them for massive profit. ;)

In other words...Pawn Shops are a good place to look just be prepared to haggle a bit :)
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by gopherguy06 » Thu Jul 18 10:34 am

Handyman wrote:
Wed Apr 10 11:23 am
I have a Traeger...love it! It does a great job of cooking pretty much everything I have tried. The ribs I make are favorites for my friends and family and I smoke a turkey on there for Thanksgiving the last two years.

This is actually my second one. I bought the small one 3 years ago and it was just a bit too small for me so I sold it to a buddy (whose wife actually just thanked me for selling it to him randomly) and bought a much larger one. (probably the one they show at Costco) Loved them both!

The pellets can usually be found usually for $19 a bag. They last a while too so it isnt like you will go through them fast. (unless you grill every day) Just dont buy off brand ones they may not be shaped right.
I ended up buying a used Traeger Bronson 20 from a guy on CL. Just picked it up and excited to use it. Got any favorite recipes?

You had a smaller one? What type was that?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Handyman » Thu Jul 18 1:44 pm

I forget the model but I think it was the tailgater or a similar size. I smoke turkey on there (brine it overnight first) quite often and it just crushes on Thanksgiving :)

The 1-2-3 Ribs receipe that Traeger has is a nice simple way to make ribs. Get a solid dry rub (I use a dry mustard rub as a base) and you are good to go. Traeger has tons of recipes you can find if you go to their web site or google them. I like to experiment with them.

Oh and seafood...I cook crab legs and shrimp on there, even scallops. Delicious :)
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by eHo » Fri Jul 19 8:33 am

Handyman wrote:
Thu Jul 18 1:44 pm
I forget the model but I think it was the tailgater or a similar size. I smoke turkey on there (brine it overnight first) quite often and it just crushes on Thanksgiving :)

The 1-2-3 Ribs receipe that Traeger has is a nice simple way to make ribs. Get a solid dry rub (I use a dry mustard rub as a base) and you are good to go. Traeger has tons of recipes you can find if you go to their web site or google them. I like to experiment with them.

Oh and seafood...I cook crab legs and shrimp on there, even scallops. Delicious :)
321 ribs are really easy.

A few of things I like to make my Rec Tec grill:

- Pig Candy (https://www.rectecgrills.com/pig-candy/)
- Spatchcock chicken
- Pork belly burnt ends
- Bloody Mary marinated chicken wings

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by gopherguy06 » Mon Jul 22 7:50 pm

The new house we moved in had speakers built in on the main floor and basement. Anyone have a recommendation on a solid but not outrageous receiver which would work to connect to both sets of wires and speakers?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by fightclub30 » Mon Jul 22 7:56 pm

gopherguy06 wrote:
Mon Jul 22 7:50 pm
The new house we moved in had speakers built in on the main floor and basement. Anyone have a recommendation on a solid but not outrageous receiver which would work to connect to both sets of wires and speakers?
I am a big fan of my Marantz. Depending on what you need, they've got solutions for most budgets. Going from a big box store, cheaper Onkyo to my mid level Marantz was a noticable difference.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Greyeagle » Mon Jul 22 8:07 pm

I've had really good luck with Pioneer Elite. They also have good selections at various price points.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Mon Jul 22 8:26 pm

I have to give a shout out to Ozark Trail coolers. In Houghton, realized I needed to buy another cooler for beer. Shopko was closed (duh) so UGH went to Wal-Mart. 54 qt IIRC, stainless steel, $100. Put ice in on Thursday morn, about 10am or so. Got home on Sun night about 7pm. Never had to refill, minimal melting.

Has a "switch lock" for the lid, bottle opener on the front for the "frills." I am pleased.

Bonus: cashier sees bottle opener: Wow, that's old fashioned! All the bottles now come with twist offs!
Not. Kidding.
MNGophers29 wrote:When the wife asks, I will just tell her "Rube said it was ok"!! LOL!

When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the country you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Mon Jul 22 9:00 pm

The Rube wrote:
Mon Jul 22 8:26 pm
I have to give a shout out to Ozark Trail coolers. In Houghton, realized I needed to buy another cooler for beer. Shopko was closed (duh) so UGH went to Wal-Mart. 54 qt IIRC, stainless steel, $100. Put ice in on Thursday morn, about 10am or so. Got home on Sun night about 7pm. Never had to refill, minimal melting.

Has a "switch lock" for the lid, bottle opener on the front for the "frills." I am pleased.

Bonus: cashier sees bottle opener: Wow, that's old fashioned! All the bottles now come with twist offs!
Not. Kidding.
Did you ask what kind of Lite beer they drink?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Mon Jul 22 9:08 pm

The Rube wrote:
Mon Jul 22 8:26 pm
I have to give a shout out to Ozark Trail coolers. In Houghton, realized I needed to buy another cooler for beer. Shopko was closed (duh) so UGH went to Wal-Mart. 54 qt IIRC, stainless steel, $100. Put ice in on Thursday morn, about 10am or so. Got home on Sun night about 7pm. Never had to refill, minimal melting.

Has a "switch lock" for the lid, bottle opener on the front for the "frills." I am pleased.

Bonus: cashier sees bottle opener: Wow, that's old fashioned! All the bottles now come with twist offs!
Not. Kidding.
Honestly, I have no issues with many of their products. Had a 32oz Yeti mug and an Ozark one and they both performed the same.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Mon Jul 22 9:56 pm

MNGophers29 wrote:
Mon Jul 22 9:08 pm
The Rube wrote:
Mon Jul 22 8:26 pm
I have to give a shout out to Ozark Trail coolers. In Houghton, realized I needed to buy another cooler for beer. Shopko was closed (duh) so UGH went to Wal-Mart. 54 qt IIRC, stainless steel, $100. Put ice in on Thursday morn, about 10am or so. Got home on Sun night about 7pm. Never had to refill, minimal melting.

Has a "switch lock" for the lid, bottle opener on the front for the "frills." I am pleased.

Bonus: cashier sees bottle opener: Wow, that's old fashioned! All the bottles now come with twist offs!
Not. Kidding.
Honestly, I have no issues with many of their products. Had a 32oz Yeti mug and an Ozark one and they both performed the same.
Sounds like I got a bit lucky on the purchase. I had no idea what I was looking for when I went in. :oops: Didn't think I'd need it.
MNGophers29 wrote:When the wife asks, I will just tell her "Rube said it was ok"!! LOL!

When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the country you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Cowgirl » Mon Jul 22 11:50 pm

Bertogliat wrote:
Mon Jul 22 9:00 pm
The Rube wrote:
Mon Jul 22 8:26 pm
I have to give a shout out to Ozark Trail coolers. In Houghton, realized I needed to buy another cooler for beer. Shopko was closed (duh) so UGH went to Wal-Mart. 54 qt IIRC, stainless steel, $100. Put ice in on Thursday morn, about 10am or so. Got home on Sun night about 7pm. Never had to refill, minimal melting.

Has a "switch lock" for the lid, bottle opener on the front for the "frills." I am pleased.

Bonus: cashier sees bottle opener: Wow, that's old fashioned! All the bottles now come with twist offs!
Not. Kidding.
Did you ask what kind of Lite beer they drink?
Probably Natty.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Tue Jul 23 12:01 am

Cowgirl wrote:
Mon Jul 22 11:50 pm
Bertogliat wrote:
Mon Jul 22 9:00 pm
The Rube wrote:
Mon Jul 22 8:26 pm
I have to give a shout out to Ozark Trail coolers. In Houghton, realized I needed to buy another cooler for beer. Shopko was closed (duh) so UGH went to Wal-Mart. 54 qt IIRC, stainless steel, $100. Put ice in on Thursday morn, about 10am or so. Got home on Sun night about 7pm. Never had to refill, minimal melting.

Has a "switch lock" for the lid, bottle opener on the front for the "frills." I am pleased.

Bonus: cashier sees bottle opener: Wow, that's old fashioned! All the bottles now come with twist offs!
Not. Kidding.
Did you ask what kind of Lite beer they drink?
Probably Naturdays.
Fixed. :D
MNGophers29 wrote:When the wife asks, I will just tell her "Rube said it was ok"!! LOL!

When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the country you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by team22tank » Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm

Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by GO4 » Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm

team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by davescharf » Tue Jul 23 9:11 pm

GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
I go to Complete Automotive in Blaine (off County J and Xylite). My family has known the owner for years and they do good work.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Cowgirl » Tue Jul 23 9:20 pm

davescharf wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:11 pm
GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
I go to Complete Automotive in Blaine (off County J and Xylite). My family has known the owner for years and they do good work.
Dynotech automotive in St. Paul - just off 94 cretin/vandalia. Has done our cars for years - fair, honest, and takes great care of us.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by fightclub30 » Tue Jul 23 9:22 pm

GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
If you can change oil and brakes you can do a coolant "flush" and lost of other things. Spark plugs, fuel filters, oxygen sensors, serp belts, transmission fluid, etc. All very easy.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bladepuller » Tue Jul 23 9:26 pm

Slim's Motor Clinic right on 7th and Bunker by the Anoka hockey arena.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Tue Jul 23 9:43 pm

JPT in Brooklyn Center is honest and solid with their work.
MNGophers29 wrote:When the wife asks, I will just tell her "Rube said it was ok"!! LOL!

When you tell somebody somethin', it depends on what part of the country you're standin' in... as to just how dumb you are.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Tue Jul 23 10:20 pm

Bladepuller wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:26 pm
Slim's Motor Clinic right on 7th and Bunker by the Anoka hockey arena.
Seconded. And every year he gives a scholarship to an Anoka HS student who wants to go into automotive repair.

Not a charmer, but honest and fair.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by GO4 » Wed Jul 24 6:18 am

fightclub30 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:22 pm
GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
If you can change oil and brakes you can do a coolant "flush" and lost of other things. Spark plugs, fuel filters, oxygen sensors, serp belts, transmission fluid, etc. All very easy.
I appreciate your enthusiasm but no. :lol: I don't have the tools and mainly the time/patience to tackle most of that other stuff right now.

Thanks for all the suggestions! :dup: :dup: :dup:

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by fightclub30 » Wed Jul 24 2:18 pm

GO4 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 6:18 am
fightclub30 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:22 pm
GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
If you can change oil and brakes you can do a coolant "flush" and lost of other things. Spark plugs, fuel filters, oxygen sensors, serp belts, transmission fluid, etc. All very easy.
I appreciate your enthusiasm but no. :lol: I don't have the tools and mainly the time/patience to tackle most of that other stuff right now.

Thanks for all the suggestions! :dup: :dup: :dup:
Fair enough. I just became so frustrated with dealer pricing ($150+ / HR), $200 "diagnostic" fees when I can tell you what the problem is and independent places needing the car "all day" or not being able to fit me in for 2-3 weeks. Plus having a performance oriented vehicle - going out for a lunch with a co-worker as seeing your car fly by while it is supposed to be getting repaired is frustrating.

My car I can tear apart the engine bay with 4-5 different sockets, all metric. A 14mm hex, a 10mm hex, and T15, T20, and T27 torx. It is wonderful, pretty predictable, and I've become super familiar with it.

My wife's car (ford fusion) is a constant battle - what is metric? what is SAE? a hodgepodge of different sizes... The water pump is held on with 4 bolts, and of course it is 3 different sizes because why not! Working on her car can become tiresome very quickly.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Slap Shot » Wed Jul 24 3:06 pm

fightclub30 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 2:18 pm
GO4 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 6:18 am
fightclub30 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:22 pm
GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
If you can change oil and brakes you can do a coolant "flush" and lost of other things. Spark plugs, fuel filters, oxygen sensors, serp belts, transmission fluid, etc. All very easy.
I appreciate your enthusiasm but no. :lol: I don't have the tools and mainly the time/patience to tackle most of that other stuff right now.

Thanks for all the suggestions! :dup: :dup: :dup:
Fair enough. I just became so frustrated with dealer pricing ($150+ / HR), $200 "diagnostic" fees when I can tell you what the problem is and independent places needing the car "all day" or not being able to fit me in for 2-3 weeks. Plus having a performance oriented vehicle - going out for a lunch with a co-worker as seeing your car fly by while it is supposed to be getting repaired is frustrating.

My car I can tear apart the engine bay with 4-5 different sockets, all metric. A 14mm hex, a 10mm hex, and T15, T20, and T27 torx. It is wonderful, pretty predictable, and I've become super familiar with it.

My wife's car (ford fusion) is a constant battle - what is metric? what is SAE? a hodgepodge of different sizes... The water pump is held on with 4 bolts, and of course it is 3 different sizes because why not! Working on her car can become tiresome very quickly.
Is her car German?
Currently under construction.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by george » Wed Jul 24 4:30 pm

Slap Shot wrote:
Wed Jul 24 3:06 pm
fightclub30 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 2:18 pm
GO4 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 6:18 am
fightclub30 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:22 pm
GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
If you can change oil and brakes you can do a coolant "flush" and lost of other things. Spark plugs, fuel filters, oxygen sensors, serp belts, transmission fluid, etc. All very easy.
I appreciate your enthusiasm but no. :lol: I don't have the tools and mainly the time/patience to tackle most of that other stuff right now.

Thanks for all the suggestions! :dup: :dup: :dup:
Fair enough. I just became so frustrated with dealer pricing ($150+ / HR), $200 "diagnostic" fees when I can tell you what the problem is and independent places needing the car "all day" or not being able to fit me in for 2-3 weeks. Plus having a performance oriented vehicle - going out for a lunch with a co-worker as seeing your car fly by while it is supposed to be getting repaired is frustrating.

My car I can tear apart the engine bay with 4-5 different sockets, all metric. A 14mm hex, a 10mm hex, and T15, T20, and T27 torx. It is wonderful, pretty predictable, and I've become super familiar with it.

My wife's car (ford fusion) is a constant battle - what is metric? what is SAE? a hodgepodge of different sizes... The water pump is held on with 4 bolts, and of course it is 3 different sizes because why not! Working on her car can become tiresome very quickly.
Is her car German?
Sounds like it's a Canadimeximerican as many Ford's are now. If it was German all would be metric.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by fightclub30 » Wed Jul 24 4:41 pm

Slap Shot wrote:
Wed Jul 24 3:06 pm
fightclub30 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 2:18 pm
GO4 wrote:
Wed Jul 24 6:18 am
fightclub30 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:22 pm
GO4 wrote:
Tue Jul 23 9:05 pm
team22tank wrote:
Tue Jul 23 3:49 pm
Does anyone know a good car guy that does flushes? Specifically a coolant flush?
I second that. Need a reliable car guy for general maintenance beyond oil and brakes.
If you can change oil and brakes you can do a coolant "flush" and lost of other things. Spark plugs, fuel filters, oxygen sensors, serp belts, transmission fluid, etc. All very easy.
I appreciate your enthusiasm but no. :lol: I don't have the tools and mainly the time/patience to tackle most of that other stuff right now.

Thanks for all the suggestions! :dup: :dup: :dup:
Fair enough. I just became so frustrated with dealer pricing ($150+ / HR), $200 "diagnostic" fees when I can tell you what the problem is and independent places needing the car "all day" or not being able to fit me in for 2-3 weeks. Plus having a performance oriented vehicle - going out for a lunch with a co-worker as seeing your car fly by while it is supposed to be getting repaired is frustrating.

My car I can tear apart the engine bay with 4-5 different sockets, all metric. A 14mm hex, a 10mm hex, and T15, T20, and T27 torx. It is wonderful, pretty predictable, and I've become super familiar with it.

My wife's car (ford fusion) is a constant battle - what is metric? what is SAE? a hodgepodge of different sizes... The water pump is held on with 4 bolts, and of course it is 3 different sizes because why not! Working on her car can become tiresome very quickly.
Is her car German?
Nope, its a ford. My car is German though, and significantly easier to take care of. Slightly more expensive parts, but purrs like a kitty at 128,000 miles with regular maintenance. My only significant repairs were a Fuel Injector stuck open (yikes), a failing timing chain tensioner, and a blown rear main seal from a performance upgrade. Every thing else was routine maintenance.

My wife's Ford, now at 94,000 miles, has had 2 brake calipers seize, 2 water pumps fail, broken thermostat, a coil pack die, numerous bushings needing to be replaced, A/C compressor died, power steering pump failure...

While my German car repairs were individually more intensive, her car has had seemingly constant nagging issues since around 60,000 miles.

My wife's Fusion was purchased brand new in 2011 for $26,400 - it is now worth $2,400 in trade... yuck! My car was purchased 1 year old in 2012 for $21,000 and is still worth $8,600 in trade with significantly more miles. I told her she cannot buy a Ford when we replace her car (next year likely).

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Slap Shot » Wed Jul 24 5:14 pm

Weird. I always found my Audis to be over-engineered and my wife's one BMW a PITA, and like an iPhone you could never fix it yourself and it was expensive as hell.every time. Give me a luxury Japanese car now every time. But to each their own not trying to sound judgy. :)
Currently under construction.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by davescharf » Wed Jul 24 9:38 pm

I have a few remodeling questions. We got finally got dried out from a failed sump and we are talking about how to handle the repairs we need to do. We are talking about a lot of different ideas because we may bite the bullet and just start a long discussed basement remodel. I know very little about this stuff so some of these are likely to be very dumb to some of you.

1. What are your recommendations on insulation? Is foam insulation worth the extra cost? Does it give you a better insulated house?
2. The drying out only resulting in 2-3 feet of drywall being removed. Is it possible to fish out the rest of the fiberglass insulation and then replace it?
3. How costly is roughing in a space for a bathroom. What should I expect in terms of cost and space needed for a small 3/4 bathroom?
4. How have you gone about taking a cool basement room (cold in winter) and made it livable there? I’d say in the winter the temp is in the low 60s at best in the winter

I realize there’s a lot of possible answers here so I’m just curious to thoughts
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by The Rube » Wed Jul 24 9:40 pm

Slap Shot wrote:
Wed Jul 24 5:14 pm
Weird. I always found my Audis to be over-engineered and my wife's one BMW a PITA, and like an iPhone you could never fix it yourself and it was expensive as hell.every time. Give me a luxury Japanese car now every time. But to each their own not trying to sound judgy. :)
My brother, a mechanic for 24 years, told me if I ever bought German, he would not touch my car. "Horse :censored: engineering" he called it. And this was before the big emissions scandal.
"
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by g-manpuck » Thu Jul 25 7:25 am

davescharf wrote:
Wed Jul 24 9:38 pm
I have a few remodeling questions. We got finally got dried out from a failed sump and we are talking about how to handle the repairs we need to do. We are talking about a lot of different ideas because we may bite the bullet and just start a long discussed basement remodel. I know very little about this stuff so some of these are likely to be very dumb to some of you.

1. What are your recommendations on insulation? Is foam insulation worth the extra cost? Does it give you a better insulated house?
2. The drying out only resulting in 2-3 feet of drywall being removed. Is it possible to fish out the rest of the fiberglass insulation and then replace it?
3. How costly is roughing in a space for a bathroom. What should I expect in terms of cost and space needed for a small 3/4 bathroom?
4. How have you gone about taking a cool basement room (cold in winter) and made it livable there? I’d say in the winter the temp is in the low 60s at best in the winter

I realize there’s a lot of possible answers here so I’m just curious to thoughts
1. Foam does give you a slightly higher R value than fiberglass and then it does work as a vapor barrier as well so there is that additional benefit.

2. You can fish out the insulation IF it isn't paper faced but if it is it will be a mess and it will be pretty hard to get all the insulation out of the wall and then fishing in the new insulation will be a headache as well. I would just recommend cutting or ripping the insulation about 6 inches above where you cut the sheetrock and replace from there down.

3. The big cost for a basement bathroom is the plumbing rough-in. How close is a sewer pipe to where you want to put the bathroom? And the location of a sewer pipe might dictate where you put the bathroom because you will need to be able to tie into drain lines to re-vent the drain lines for that bathroom. A 3/4 bathroom is probably going to be no larger than 6' x 8' and cost for it I would guess around $150 to $200 per square foot but that is pure speculation on my part for the cost.

4. Getting a cool basement to feel warm takes good wall insulation and good air movement. Making sure that you have enough furnace ducts in the basement is step one but then making sure you have a well placed cold air return is the other step that usually doesn't happen. Most of the time in basements the register is in the ceiling which is counter productive to dumping warm air into the space because then the warm air stays along the ceiling. If that can't be helped just make sure that the cold air return is placed by the floor and away from the registers.

Hope this helps a little.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Thu Jul 25 7:52 am

Spray foam has about 3 times the R-value as that of fiberglass and it is air tight. Only heat loss is through the studs. If a cold basement is an issue, this will definitely help. You can also put down a subfloor (look up Dri-Core panels) that will help keep the floor feeling warmer.

What g-man means on fishing out installation on kraft paper backed insulation is it is most likely stapled to the studs making it more difficult to get out than the friction fit stuff. Drywall is inexpensive though so if you are considering a full remodel, don’t waste your time, pull it down.

There are so many variables in roughing in a basement bathroom on an already poured basement, but you can do a lot of the grunt work yourself to save money (jack-hammering out concrete, etc).
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by davescharf » Thu Jul 25 8:36 am

This is helpful. I was already thinking about ripping out all the drywall already knowing that’s usually not a big cost, especially if I rip it all out myself

Our duct work is terrible in the basement but I did have a good cold air return in there since I got the new furnace and AC. We’d probably end up looking at something like baseboard heating because I think we will lose the battle any other way on that front
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by g-manpuck » Thu Jul 25 9:13 am

davescharf wrote:
Thu Jul 25 8:36 am
This is helpful. I was already thinking about ripping out all the drywall already knowing that’s usually not a big cost, especially if I rip it all out myself

Our duct work is terrible in the basement but I did have a good cold air return in there since I got the new furnace and AC. We’d probably end up looking at something like baseboard heating because I think we will lose the battle any other way on that front
If you do put baseboard heat in make sure that it is 240 volt because 110 volt baseboards are inefficient and suck the electricity. Overall baseboard heat is inefficient but at least 240 volt does not draw the large amount of electricity that 110 volt does.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by george » Thu Jul 25 9:52 am

g-manpuck wrote:
Thu Jul 25 9:13 am
davescharf wrote:
Thu Jul 25 8:36 am
This is helpful. I was already thinking about ripping out all the drywall already knowing that’s usually not a big cost, especially if I rip it all out myself

Our duct work is terrible in the basement but I did have a good cold air return in there since I got the new furnace and AC. We’d probably end up looking at something like baseboard heating because I think we will lose the battle any other way on that front
If you do put baseboard heat in make sure that it is 240 volt because 110 volt baseboards are inefficient and suck the electricity. Overall baseboard heat is inefficient but at least 240 volt does not draw the large amount of electricity that 110 volt does.
Sorry gman, I'm gonna disagree. You are billed on Kw and Kw is Kw regardless of amp draw. Agree to go 240 but do it to reduce amp draw and wire size, not to save energy. BTU (heat) is directly converted from Kw and that's what you're after.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by MNGophers29 » Thu Jul 25 10:30 am

george wrote:
Thu Jul 25 9:52 am
g-manpuck wrote:
Thu Jul 25 9:13 am
davescharf wrote:
Thu Jul 25 8:36 am
This is helpful. I was already thinking about ripping out all the drywall already knowing that’s usually not a big cost, especially if I rip it all out myself

Our duct work is terrible in the basement but I did have a good cold air return in there since I got the new furnace and AC. We’d probably end up looking at something like baseboard heating because I think we will lose the battle any other way on that front
If you do put baseboard heat in make sure that it is 240 volt because 110 volt baseboards are inefficient and suck the electricity. Overall baseboard heat is inefficient but at least 240 volt does not draw the large amount of electricity that 110 volt does.
Sorry gman, I'm gonna disagree. You are billed on Kw and Kw is Kw regardless of amp draw. Agree to go 240 but do it to reduce amp draw and wire size, not to save energy. BTU (heat) is directly converted from Kw and that's what you're after.
Also, baseboard heat is the most efficient form of heat as you don’t waste any of it going up a chimney or out an exhaust pipe. It’s just expensive and doesn’t circulate itself.

I have baseboard heat, wish I had forced air so if you can spend some now on getting your ductwork up to snuff, do that. It will save you in the long run. I have a $4000 pellet stove in my basement and still spend $400-$500 per month on electricity in the dead of winter.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by g-manpuck » Thu Jul 25 2:21 pm

george wrote:
Thu Jul 25 9:52 am
g-manpuck wrote:
Thu Jul 25 9:13 am
davescharf wrote:
Thu Jul 25 8:36 am
This is helpful. I was already thinking about ripping out all the drywall already knowing that’s usually not a big cost, especially if I rip it all out myself

Our duct work is terrible in the basement but I did have a good cold air return in there since I got the new furnace and AC. We’d probably end up looking at something like baseboard heating because I think we will lose the battle any other way on that front
If you do put baseboard heat in make sure that it is 240 volt because 110 volt baseboards are inefficient and suck the electricity. Overall baseboard heat is inefficient but at least 240 volt does not draw the large amount of electricity that 110 volt does.
Sorry gman, I'm gonna disagree. You are billed on Kw and Kw is Kw regardless of amp draw. Agree to go 240 but do it to reduce amp draw and wire size, not to save energy. BTU (heat) is directly converted from Kw and that's what you're after.
Ha ha...you're correct, I should have been clearer and said amp draw.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by gopherguy06 » Thu Aug 08 11:08 am

Looking for someone to come spray at the house for bugs, especially box elder, which we tend to get a lot of in the spring and fall.

Our neighbors used Aptive Environmental, but anyone use them or have a suggestion of another place?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Kelly Red » Thu Aug 08 12:30 pm

gopherguy06 wrote:
Thu Aug 08 11:08 am
Looking for someone to come spray at the house for bugs, especially box elder, which we tend to get a lot of in the spring and fall.

Our neighbors used Aptive Environmental, but anyone use them or have a suggestion of another place?
It's not that hard to take care of it yourself and you'll save a ton of money. Get one of those simple sprayer units that go on the end of your hose. Fill container with soap solution and spray away. Look, they come back every year so don't get yourself trapped in a cycle of always paying someone else to do it. Professionals basically use the same method, slightly different spray solution, but soap works just fine. It won't harm your house or plants, it kills the BE bugs and it's pretty straight forward. If you've got kids, let them do it! Nothing is more entertaining then spraying water with your dads permission! And it's just soap. :dup:

Now if you've got ants or wasps or some other creepy crawly too this might not help.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Thomps » Thu Aug 08 12:54 pm

gopherguy06 wrote:
Thu Aug 08 11:08 am
Looking for someone to come spray at the house for bugs, especially box elder, which we tend to get a lot of in the spring and fall.

Our neighbors used Aptive Environmental, but anyone use them or have a suggestion of another place?
Go buy a simple garden pump sprayer and do it yourself. Very easy!

Now if you want to wipe out ticks, mosquitoes, Japanese beetles, Asian beetles, ants, box-elders, wasps....etc, I got a tip from a pest control guy on what to use. This stuff is awesome!

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by gopherguy06 » Thu Aug 08 6:43 pm

Thomps wrote:
Thu Aug 08 12:54 pm
gopherguy06 wrote:
Thu Aug 08 11:08 am
Looking for someone to come spray at the house for bugs, especially box elder, which we tend to get a lot of in the spring and fall.

Our neighbors used Aptive Environmental, but anyone use them or have a suggestion of another place?
Go buy a simple garden pump sprayer and do it yourself. Very easy!

Now if you want to wipe out ticks, mosquitoes, Japanese beetles, Asian beetles, ants, box-elders, wasps....etc, I got a tip from a pest control guy on what to use. This stuff is awesome!
what stuff is that?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by D2D » Thu Aug 08 8:38 pm

gopherguy06 wrote:
Thu Aug 08 6:43 pm
what stuff is that?
Yeah, what stuff is that, and how to mix?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Thomps » Fri Aug 09 10:06 am

D2D wrote:
Thu Aug 08 8:38 pm
gopherguy06 wrote:
Thu Aug 08 6:43 pm
what stuff is that?
Yeah, what stuff is that, and how to mix?
talstar pro. I use 1 oz of talstar per gallon of water and I cover my bushes (non-flowering) and evergreens. I also spray my rocks around the house, one foot up the foundation wall, one foot into the rocks. The base of doors, and lights that are on at night (bug attractors). This stuff leaves a non-visable residue, so once a bug hits it after you spray and it dries, they die. It does wash off with water, so if you get tons of rain it washes off.

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by D2D » Fri Aug 09 5:05 pm

Thanks Thomps, just ordered a jug!

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Zwak » Fri Aug 09 5:26 pm

Thomps wrote:
Fri Aug 09 10:06 am
D2D wrote:
Thu Aug 08 8:38 pm
gopherguy06 wrote:
Thu Aug 08 6:43 pm
what stuff is that?
Yeah, what stuff is that, and how to mix?
talstar pro. I use 1 oz of talstar per gallon of water and I cover my bushes (non-flowering) and evergreens. I also spray my rocks around the house, one foot up the foundation wall, one foot into the rocks. The base of doors, and lights that are on at night (bug attractors). This stuff leaves a non-visable residue, so once a bug hits it after you spray and it dries, they die. It does wash off with water, so if you get tons of rain it washes off.
Ever since we went to LED lights outside I’ve noticed that bugs don’t seem attracted to them.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bonin21 » Thu Aug 15 5:54 pm

Made the switch from Comcast internet (150Mbps and all channels) to Comcast Gigabit + YouTube TV. Let's see how this goes.

Missing channels in order of importance:
RedZone
HBO (can get separately)
NHL Network
NFL Network
SEC Network
45 for State Hockey Tournament (though hopefully online again)

HBO was really the only premium channel I watched.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by JWG » Thu Aug 15 5:58 pm

NFL Network would be tough for me. I’d get over the others (don’t have NHL network today). 45 is available with a digital tv antenna if you can add one of those.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bonin21 » Thu Aug 15 6:01 pm

Why the NFL doesn't offer RedZone or a RedZone/NFLN combo ad hoc is beyond me.
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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Orion » Thu Aug 15 8:45 pm

Bonin21 wrote:
Thu Aug 15 6:01 pm
Why the NFL doesn't offer RedZone or a RedZone/NFLN combo ad hoc is beyond me.
I recently read all article that mentioned they are starting to let individual teams offer packages. The thought is that eventually streaming will dominate and they can price the pet team packages lower. Overall they would make more money. Time will tell I guess

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bertogliat » Thu Aug 15 8:54 pm

Orion wrote:
Thu Aug 15 8:45 pm
Bonin21 wrote:
Thu Aug 15 6:01 pm
Why the NFL doesn't offer RedZone or a RedZone/NFLN combo ad hoc is beyond me.
I recently read all article that mentioned they are starting to let individual teams offer packages. The thought is that eventually streaming will dominate and they can price the pet team packages lower. Overall they would make more money. Time will tell I guess
Won't this lead to a bigger disparity for teams like the Cowboys, Giants, Yankees, Dodgers, etc?

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Re: Consumer Research

Post by Bonin21 » Thu Aug 15 9:12 pm

That's kinda the opposite of what I and many want which is redzone
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