This might be a dumb question, but...

by **Superstar** » Thu 5/03/12 2:50 am

Snowcool08 wrote:
Superstar wrote:Does anyone have the Comcast DVR...and does it beep from time-to-time? Mine beeps, and I can't figure out why. It'll beep a lot in a short period of time (like one beep every minute or so). Then I won't hear it for days, then it might beep just a couple times. It's weird.

Is it the receiver itself making the noise or does it come through the TV speakers? I have no idea what it could be, I'm just intrigued.

I THINK it's coming thru the DVR...cuz it doesn't sound like it's coming from the same place the sound from whatever TV show I have on at the time. I tried to Google-search it once, and the only thing people said it MIGHT be is that the hard drive could be getting ready to fail? But then others say there is nothing in the DVR that could make a audible "beep". So yeah, have no idea.

by **Zwak** » Thu 5/03/12 5:35 am

Superstar wrote:
Snowcool08 wrote:
Superstar wrote:Does anyone have the Comcast DVR...and does it beep from time-to-time? Mine beeps, and I can't figure out why. It'll beep a lot in a short period of time (like one beep every minute or so). Then I won't hear it for days, then it might beep just a couple times. It's weird.

Is it the receiver itself making the noise or does it come through the TV speakers? I have no idea what it could be, I'm just intrigued.

I THINK it's coming thru the DVR...cuz it doesn't sound like it's coming from the same place the sound from whatever TV show I have on at the time. I tried to Google-search it once, and the only thing people said it MIGHT be is that the hard drive could be getting ready to fail? But then others say there is nothing in the DVR that could make a audible "beep". So yeah, have no idea.

In the words of the immortal Bruce Hornsby, "that's just the way it is."

by **Luckygirl#13** » Thu 5/03/12 12:27 pm

How is it possible that there is already a thread for the Soldier Field game in February, but not a thread for the Houghton Road Trip????? :shock:

Come on!!!! You guys are slacking. It's only 6 months away! :biggrin2:

by **WPoS** » Thu 5/03/12 1:55 pm

Luckygirl#13 wrote:How is it possible that there is already a thread for the Soldier Field game in February, but not a thread for the Houghton Road Trip????? Come on!!!! You guys are slacking. It's only 6 months away!

there's a FB page!

W

by **Armadillo** » Thu 5/03/12 2:19 pm

Luckygirl#13 wrote:How is it possible that there is already a thread for the Soldier Field game in February, but not a thread for the Houghton Road Trip????? Come on!!!! You guys are slacking. It's only 6 months away!

Houghton doesn't need to advertise.

by **PrideOnIce** » Tue 5/08/12 12:51 pm

http://espn.go.com/nfl/story/_/id/78869 ... ex-players

So with all of the concussion lawsuits on the horizon, how long before the lawyers figure it out and go after the big money, the owners of the stadiums (taxpayers) for providing the venue for these sporting events that led to their clients' condition?

How long before congressional hearings take place to solve the issue of football related concussions?

by **mjarz02** » Tue 5/08/12 6:07 pm

Superstar wrote:Does anyone have the Comcast DVR...and does it beep from time-to-time? Mine beeps, and I can't figure out why. It'll beep a lot in a short period of time (like one beep every minute or so). Then I won't hear it for days, then it might beep just a couple times. It's weird.

You're dvr might be overheating. Remove anything that is on top of it and if that does not fix the problem, contact Comcast for a new one. Typically if you buy the insurance plan you avoid having to buy a new dvr.

by **dxmnkd316** » Tue 5/08/12 6:50 pm

Insurance? You don't need insurance. You rent your DVR. They'll replace it if it has failed and you ask them.

Edit: If they asked me to pay a penny for something I'm renting, I'd tell them to send me over to the cancellations department.

by **Zwak** » Tue 5/08/12 7:58 pm

Can the State (or any other municipal entity) levy a tax on a particular location within a county? One of the things being discussed at the capital is an additional tax on merchandise sold in the new stadium

They must think they can but I can't think of any examples of where this has been done before in MN.

p.s. Not trying to start a whole debate about the stadium and taxes, just curious about the policy.

by **Kelor** » Tue 5/08/12 8:17 pm

They can and have for years. Currently, it is capped at 16.275%, and you will see that rate downtown Minneapolis if you buy a drink in a bar that has live entertainment. It's currently a meager 10.775% for a restaurant downtown. I believe they were also proposing a 7% "jersey tax" where any jersey sold in Mn would have an additional 7% tax on top of it. I don't know if that became part of the bill or not.

by **mjarz02** » Tue 5/08/12 11:00 pm

dxmnkd316 wrote:Insurance? You don't need insurance. You rent your DVR. They'll replace it if it has failed and you ask them.

Edit: If they asked me to pay a penny for something I'm renting, I'd tell them to send me over to the cancellations department.

Yeah but most cable/dish places won't send you a new one free of charge unless you have insurance. You can usually get it for less than ten bucks and then cancel it once you get you're new equipment. However, if you tell them you are cancelling you can usually get new equipment for free and a discount, unless you are undervcontract.

by **dxmnkd316** » Tue 5/08/12 11:11 pm

mjarz02 wrote:
dxmnkd316 wrote:Insurance? You don't need insurance. You rent your DVR. They'll replace it if it has failed and you ask them.

Edit: If they asked me to pay a penny for something I'm renting, I'd tell them to send me over to the cancellations department.

Yeah but most cable/dish places won't send you a new one free of charge unless you have insurance. You can usually get it for less than ten bucks and then cancel it once you get you're new equipment. However, if you tell them you are cancelling you can usually get new equipment for free and a discount, unless you are undervcontract.

Interesting. But again, if I'm renting equipment to enjoy a service I'm paying for, that equipment damn well better work. I can't imagine them telling me I have to pay to get a replacement if their POS equipment isn't working. I mean, what if the hardline to your neighborhood is cut? That can take a week or two to replace (I should know, it happened in Blaine). Are they going to tell you to pound sand because their equipment is faulty?

That would be a tough pill to swallow.

by **streakygopher** » Wed 5/09/12 10:35 am

Clearly I have no concept of how Google Maps works. I was looking at the sat view of Mariucci the other day. Across the street there was the pre-stadium parking lot...Old picture, right? As I clicked zoom the new TCF Bank stadium magically appeared. Also, the time of year changed. Do they actually go back and add points of interest as they're built? I can only guess that the mapping software is ridiculously complicated but it was a little weird just to the stadium appear.

by **h8red** » Wed 5/09/12 11:53 am

mjarz02 wrote:
Superstar wrote:Does anyone have the Comcast DVR...and does it beep from time-to-time? Mine beeps, and I can't figure out why. It'll beep a lot in a short period of time (like one beep every minute or so). Then I won't hear it for days, then it might beep just a couple times. It's weird.

You're dvr might be overheating. Remove anything that is on top of it and if that does not fix the problem, contact Comcast for a new one. Typically if you buy the insurance plan you avoid having to buy a new dvr.

I think it means that you have recorded your maximum amount of adult entertainment allowed per machine...I heard that from a person I know, not from personal experience.

by **bobman543219** » Wed 5/09/12 2:04 pm

streakygopher wrote:Clearly I have no concept of how Google Maps works. I was looking at the sat view of Mariucci the other day. Across the street there was the pre-stadium parking lot...Old picture, right? As I clicked zoom the new TCF Bank stadium magically appeared. Also, the time of year changed. Do they actually go back and add points of interest as they're built? I can only guess that the mapping software is ridiculously complicated but it was a little weird just to the stadium appear.

I checked it out, and when zoomed out, you had the same view that you would find on Google Earth, taken from high altitude. And on Google Earth, they just use the image of an area that has the best quality. Then I zoomed in, the image vantage point changed, so I can only assume it was taken separately, and from much lower in the sky, probably only to be used if someone zooms in far, like you did, and they can still get a clear image, not one that's all pixelated and blurry

by **Zwak** » Wed 5/09/12 2:18 pm

bobman543219 wrote:
streakygopher wrote:Clearly I have no concept of how Google Maps works. I was looking at the sat view of Mariucci the other day. Across the street there was the pre-stadium parking lot...Old picture, right? As I clicked zoom the new TCF Bank stadium magically appeared. Also, the time of year changed. Do they actually go back and add points of interest as they're built? I can only guess that the mapping software is ridiculously complicated but it was a little weird just to the stadium appear.

I checked it out, and when zoomed out, you had the same view that you would find on Google Earth, taken from high altitude. And on Google Earth, they just use the image of an area that has the best quality. Then I zoomed in, the image vantage point changed, so I can only assume it was taken separately, and from much lower in the sky, probably only to be used if someone zooms in far, like you did, and they can still get a clear image, not one that's all pixelated and blurry

On a sort of related note...

http://www.focus.com/fyi/blurred-out-51 ... ogle-maps/

by **dxmnkd316** » Thu 5/10/12 12:08 am

It's because the satellite flies over different sectors at different times. You can actually see the sectors in google earth outlined in bright colors with the right overlay selected.

by **Zwak** » Thu 5/10/12 8:49 am

Question for all you political wonks. I see there are several state representatives who are leaving their position so they can run for state senator. What is the draw to be a senator over a representative?

by **SouthTexGopher** » Thu 5/10/12 10:03 am

Zwak wrote:Question for all you political wonks. I see there are several state representatives who are leaving their position so they can run for state senator. What is the draw to be a senator over a representative?

It's considered - at least in most places - to be a more respected position, as it's the "Upper House" of government. I've been away from God's country too long to know if it's true there, but most senators also have a longer period between elections (four or six years versus two years depending on where a senator serves).

by **Handyman** » Thu 5/10/12 10:10 am

Zwak wrote:Question for all you political wonks. I see there are several state representatives who are leaving their position so they can run for state senator. What is the draw to be a senator over a representative?

STG is right, the Senate is the 'higher position and gives you more time in office per term. Reps are always fighting for re-election, Senators dont have that worry.

Plus there are less Senators so it is more prestigious.

by **bonesaw** » Thu 5/10/12 10:35 am

SouthTexGopher wrote:I've been away from God's country too long to know if it's true there, but most senators also have a longer period between elections (four or six years versus two years depending on where a senator serves).

Most?

Article I of the U.S. Constitution: Senators have 6-year terms (and always offset so a state will never have 2 senatorial races the same year), and Representatives are 2-year terms.

by **oldpirate33** » Thu 5/10/12 10:39 am

bonesaw wrote:
SouthTexGopher wrote:I've been away from God's country too long to know if it's true there, but most senators also have a longer period between elections (four or six years versus two years depending on where a senator serves).

Most? Article I of the U.S. Constitution: Senators have 6-year terms (and always offset so a state will never have 2 senatorial races the same year), and Representatives are 2-year terms.

state senators have varying term lengths

http://www.ballotpedia.org/wiki/index.p ... e_senators

by **Bladepuller** » Thu 5/10/12 10:57 am

Pay for both Rep.s & Sen.s is $31,140 / yr.
Per diem while in session and while involved in "state leg. business" per day is $88 for a Sen. & $77 for a Rep. (Sat. & Sun. are eligible for $$$ while in session)
All house seats are up every 2 yrs & all senate seats in years ending in a zero, due to reapportionment, and years ending in a 4 & a 6.
(added edit)

by **bonesaw** » Thu 5/10/12 11:34 am

Oh, State Senators, not U.S. Senators :oops:

by **SouthTexGopher** » Thu 5/10/12 11:42 am

oldpirate33 wrote:
bonesaw wrote:
SouthTexGopher wrote:I've been away from God's country too long to know if it's true there, but most senators also have a longer period between elections (four or six years versus two years depending on where a senator serves).

Most? Article I of the U.S. Constitution: Senators have 6-year terms (and always offset so a state will never have 2 senatorial races the same year), and Representatives are 2-year terms.

state senators have varying term lengths

http://www.ballotpedia.org/wiki/index.p ... e_senators

That is what I meant. Thanks for clarifying that, oldpirate.

By the way, that website is fascinating.

While on that website, I checked to see if the HS Page program is still going on at the Minnesota Leg. It is. If you're the parent of a kid who's going into his or her junior year next year, I'd HIGHLY recommend it. I did it waaaaaaay back in 1989 and it was one of the best experiences of my HS years.

http://www.house.leg.state.mn.us/edprog/over2p.htm

by **Tee09** » Fri 5/11/12 9:34 am

When did greeting cards become so expensive? I just went with my wife yesterday to pick up some cards for mothers' day and graduations, and it was ridiculous. $4-5 wasn't uncommon, and they had some fancy ones for $8.

by **solar** » Fri 5/11/12 3:26 pm

Does anyone know what music ESPN uses for the Not So Top Ten Plays segment? I need to know this.

Zwak? :beg:

by **bonesaw** » Sun 5/13/12 7:23 pm

solar wrote:Does anyone know what music ESPN uses for the Not So Top Ten Plays segment? I need to know this.

Zwak?

The Shazam app says it's a song called "Cirque Italien" by some artist called "Djill", but I can't find a recording to verify that that's actually it.

by **MNGophers29** » Tue 5/15/12 12:01 am

Ok so I live in a small community (86 homes) as a suburb of Fargo. We are a city with a mayor, city council, etc. I am currently running for one of the open spots. Its kinda hokey, but a good learning experience should I decide I may want to persue a career in politics. Anyway, when I moved here in December, I couldn't find any information about what/who to contact regarding utilities, etc. I had to go to a City Council meeting in March to even find out who the person was I needed to speak to in order to see if I needed a building permit to do remodeling. Oddly enough, the city is Frontier and I feel like I live in an old west town. Each month we get news letters that someone spends time typing up, folding, addressing and mailing. Same with tax info, city ordinances, etc.

At tonight's meeting, I suggested a city website since there currently isn't one. Of course I was asked to de research. I created a 1 page Excite website about 14 years ago, but it was all just text. I think I am somewhat computer saavy, but haven't the foggiest of where to begin. I have looked for about an hour online and keep ending up on GoDaddy.com. It seems cheap enough for a city to pay for, but there are charges for a domain name, hosting, design and the #s charge depending on the # of years. It is all very confusing.

I am looking for someone to PM me some advice. Am I biting off more than I can chew? Do we need a webmaster or is this something I can do myself? I know Jup runs a tight ship here, but we are just looking for a website that is informational, not necessarily interactive. We do want to be able to upload files such as meeting minutes, announcements, etc. Maybe even a place for garage sales, neighborhood events, etc. Is GoDaddy the place to be for all of this? If the domain name is $15/month, hosting is about $8/month and the design is $50-$90 a month, am I getting a deal that will allow me to make changes that I need to or do I have to have GoDaddy make them?

I thought I could do this, but seem to be running into obstacles I don't know how to get around. If anyone can help, it would be greatly appreciated! Sorry for the length of this post too...

by **solar** » Thu 5/17/12 2:27 pm

bonesaw wrote:
solar wrote:Does anyone know what music ESPN uses for the Not So Top Ten Plays segment? I need to know this.

Zwak?

The Shazam app says it's a song called "Cirque Italien" by some artist called "Djill", but I can't find a recording to verify that that's actually it.

Thanks for the help bonesaw, but I can't find it either. :confused2:

by **Snowcool08** » Thu 5/17/12 3:33 pm

My AC adapter for my laptop stopped working and since I had a warranty from Best Buy I brought it to them to get it replaced. They send me a generic one that doesn't even have a ground prong on the plug. Could not having the ground effect my battery and computer? I wanna go complain that they replaced my part with a cheap piece of crap, but I want to be a little informed before I start arguing with them.

by **Orion** » Thu 5/17/12 5:39 pm

Snowcool08 wrote:My AC adapter for my laptop stopped working and since I had a warranty from Best Buy I brought it to them to get it replaced. They send me a generic one that doesn't even have a ground prong on the plug. Could not having the ground effect my battery and computer? I wanna go complain that they replaced my part with a cheap piece of crap, but I want to be a little informed before I start arguing with them.

Yeah. The ground plug is a safety feature. The power supply should have a UL safety mark (or other recognized safety lab like ETL)

by **WPoSforever** » Thu 5/17/12 7:01 pm

solar wrote:
bonesaw wrote:
solar wrote:Does anyone know what music ESPN uses for the Not So Top Ten Plays segment? I need to know this.

Zwak?

The Shazam app says it's a song called "Cirque Italien" by some artist called "Djill", but I can't find a recording to verify that that's actually it.

Thanks for the help bonesaw, but I can't find it either.

If you can find it on youtube (not top ten video) copy the url to youtube-mp3.org and it will convert it to an mp3 file. Although the original commentary will still be there.

by **gopherguy06** » Mon 5/21/12 5:07 pm

Planning a bachelor party up near Brainerd at Cragun's most likely. Anyone have idea about adult entertainment of the female variety up in that area at either a bar/club or that will come to a cabin for a event?

by **middhockey66** » Mon 5/21/12 6:31 pm

It would be best to import the entertainment from Minneapolis/St. Paul. It is done all the time.

by **gopherguy06** » Tue 5/22/12 9:24 am

middhockey66 wrote:It would be best to import the entertainment from Minneapolis/St. Paul. It is done all the time.

Ha, that is probably better. Any ideas or recommendation on said entertsinment? I have only enjoy that entertainment at local establishments.

by **Slap Shot** » Wed 5/23/12 10:31 pm

So has the fertilizer I laid down yesterday been rendered useless by this non-stop rain?

by **dxmnkd316** » Wed 5/23/12 10:38 pm

Slap Shot wrote:So has the fertilizer I laid down yesterday been rendered useless by this non-stop rain?

Possibly. You want SOME rain, but 2-4 inches? Not good. This is especially true for fertilizers with weed control. Useless? Maybe not. Minimized, almost certainly.

by **The Rube** » Wed 5/23/12 11:10 pm

dxmnkd316 wrote:
Slap Shot wrote:So has the fertilizer I laid down yesterday been rendered useless by this non-stop rain?

Possibly. You want SOME rain, but 2-4 inches? Not good. This is especially true for fertilizers with weed control. Useless? Maybe not. Minimized, almost certainly.

IIRC, it depends on how the rain falls. If it's a strong storm, the result is runoff. If it's an all day soaking rain, that'll make a world of difference. No, I'm not schooled enough to distinguish the last two storms (although I'd lean towards run-off).

by **WPoS** » Thu 5/24/12 7:00 am

The Rube wrote:
dxmnkd316 wrote:
Slap Shot wrote:So has the fertilizer I laid down yesterday been rendered useless by this non-stop rain?

Possibly. You want SOME rain, but 2-4 inches? Not good. This is especially true for fertilizers with weed control. Useless? Maybe not. Minimized, almost certainly.

IIRC, it depends on how the rain falls. If it's a strong storm, the result is runoff. If it's an all day soaking rain, that'll make a world of difference. No, I'm not schooled enough to distinguish the last two storms (although I'd lean towards run-off).

also depends on how your property is for elevations...mine it's all be at the bottom of one of two hills....my parents, it'd just sit there.

W

by **dxmnkd316** » Thu 5/24/12 7:32 am

True. But this latest storm is beyond a soaker or a runoff. There are areas in the Twin Cities with 4+ inches of rain. WPoS is right that it does depend on the elevations. But I can't imagine 2-4 inches of rain not removing it from the lawn. Whether that's physically moving the granules off the lawn or simply soaking through the soil too deep to benefit the grass in any meaningful way.

by **Beauner** » Thu 5/24/12 7:36 am

dxmnkd316 wrote:
Slap Shot wrote:So has the fertilizer I laid down yesterday been rendered useless by this non-stop rain?

Possibly. You want SOME rain, but 2-4 inches? Not good. This is especially true for fertilizers with weed control. Useless? Maybe not. Minimized, almost certainly.

I think it also depends on when you put the fertilizer down. When we fertilize for the city we try to do it when the grass is damp so the fertilizer has a chance to "stick" (for lack of a better term) to the blades of grass--meaning when there is dew on the grass or the mornings after a light rain. If you were able to fertilize with some dew on the grass, I wouldn't think the heavy rains would hurt it AS much as it would if the fertilizer wasn't able to "stick" to the grass.
It also depends on what type of fertilizer: weed control, grass feed, etc. Each has their own instructions.

It will almost definitely lose some of the effectiveness, but I'd be surprised if it is completely useless.

by **MNGophers29** » Thu 5/24/12 3:54 pm

You actually don't need rain to fertilize. Especially nowadays in MN with the no phosphorus rule. When you buy fertilizer and you get 27-0-3 or whatever the mixture, the 27 represents nitrogen and since the atmophere is mad eup of mostly nitrogen, but since oxygen is heavier than nitrogen, the only way nitrogen gets down to the grass is either through a lightning storm or if you put fertilizer down. Putting fertilizer down brings the nitrogen closer to the grass (vs the atmophere) thus why your grass will green in 72 hours after most fertilizer applications. The middle number (phosphorus) is for root development. That (if you put it down) will soak into the soil and will make strong roots which will go deeper to find water, thus keeping your grass healthier during droughts. The last one potassium or potash is for all around plant health.

So, most fertilizers, as long as the soil is damp, will absorb what it needs to absorb for it to be healthy. A lot of rain right after application will cause the nitrogen to disolve before the grass has a chance to "breathe" it in. Since most of fertilizer is nitrogen, it basically is ineffective for all purposes that we put fertilizer on the lawn when we do (to make the grass greener) If you want my advice, put down 10-10-10 and then 2 weeks later put down the highest nitrogen content fertlizer you can find.

As for fertilizer sticking to the grass blades, it only needs to stick when you are applying a weed control fertilizer like Scotts Plus2 or Vigoro Weed & Feed as the weed control granules need to stick to the weed.

by **h8red** » Thu 5/24/12 4:46 pm

Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

by **Tee09** » Thu 5/24/12 4:48 pm

Does grass prefer nitrogen as nitrates or ammonia/um?

by **Slap Shot** » Thu 5/24/12 9:34 pm

It was Plus2 and since I can still see some granules I think that there's a chance it wasn't completely washed out. Since I still have some left I will probably toss out a very light application (maybe 1/3 the standard rate) once it's not so friggin rainy.

by **WPoS** » Fri 5/25/12 12:53 am

h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

actually, he is coompletly in the right. Those of us who know how to game the system can still put down stuff for the roots, a total knee jerk reaction from the state, banning the "P" in fertilizers....sorry the "N" is the issue and they totally ignore that.

Regardless, I'm a "lawn afficianado" from "Mr. Lawn" on the radio, and my grass is notiably healthier than my neighbors, and I water way less than them.

W

by **dxmnkd316** » Fri 5/25/12 7:05 am

Tee09 wrote:Does grass prefer nitrogen as nitrates or ammonia/um?

Why not do both?

by **dxmnkd316** » Fri 5/25/12 7:06 am

WPoS wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"
a total knee jerk reaction from the state, banning the "P"
W

It's also why dishwasher detergent blows ass nowadays.

by **Tee09** » Fri 5/25/12 9:06 am

dxmnkd316 wrote:
Tee09 wrote:Does grass prefer nitrogen as nitrates or ammonia/um?

Why not do both?

They do. I was just curious. I grow a lot of aquatic plants, and they tend to use ammonium more efficiently.

by **MNGophers29** » Fri 5/25/12 6:50 pm

h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

by **dxmnkd316** » Sat 5/26/12 7:37 am

I would HIGHLY recommend that everyone visits the U of M Extension page. Tons of amazing information there about lawns, gardens, trees, etc. One of my favorite lawn sites on the web. I've been using it since day 1 of the new house.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/

If you dig into the site, you can find the background on the phosphorus debate in their fertilizer section:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distributi ... g2923.html

MNGophers29 wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

On a related note then, do you have any recommendations on brands you prefer? I know WPoS said fertilizers containing phosphorus are banned in Minnesota,

The chemical engineer in me says any ol' bag of fertilizer works as long as the chemical composition is the same.

by **LeoPohl** » Sat 5/26/12 10:41 am

MNGophers29 wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

Fitting in with the thread title, do you happen to have a list of jokes that you've heard from people after telling them that?

On the bright side, I think we finally found a product whose sellers know more about than it's producers. :lol:

by **MNGophers29** » Sun 5/27/12 12:06 am

dxmnkd316 wrote:I would HIGHLY recommend that everyone visits the U of M Extension page. Tons of amazing information there about lawns, gardens, trees, etc. One of my favorite lawn sites on the web. I've been using it since day 1 of the new house.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/

If you dig into the site, you can find the background on the phosphorus debate in their fertilizer section:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distributi ... g2923.html

MNGophers29 wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

On a related note then, do you have any recommendations on brands you prefer? I know WPoS said fertilizers containing phosphorus are banned in Minnesota,

The chemical engineer in me says any ol' bag of fertilizer works as long as the chemical composition is the same.

I sell Scotts and Vigoro. Vigoro is Home Depot's brand, but it is also made by Scotts. The difference is the Scotts product has all of the chemicals is each granule. Normally when you buy fertilizer you see a bunch of different color pellets. The spread of this ideally is complete, but not guranteed. With the Scotts, you ensure that each element gets where it needs to go. We don't sell lawn fertilizer with phosphorus in it here on the border of MN, but you can still find it at the many ag places in town. I use a farm fertilizer called Crop Nutrients which has a lot of phosphorus in it. My dad has been using it for as long as I can remember and we always had the greenest, lushest lawn. You have to mow about every 4-5 days though. We apply it 3 times a year, early spring, late spring (just put mine on today) and late summer. Our yards are green all fall and are the first to green up in the spring. If you are going to fertilize though, once a spring/summer isn't enough, you have to do it multiple times. The slow release thing is a gimmick too because it all depends on the amount of rain. Since you guys down in the metro don't have access to the same fertilizer I do, go with the Scotts 4 Step process and you will have the nicest lawn on the street! Go to www.homedepotgardenclub.com or www.scotts.com and you can learn more about it and sign up for reminders. Not a sales pitch, but it helps me. :biggrin2:

I am sure you are wondering if I sell fertilizer, how come I don't use the stuff I sell, if I didn't have access to the stuff I use, I would use the stuff I sell. Being I am in farmville up here, I can get it cheap and plentiful too. Anyway, I am a bit of a lawn geek and no, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night! :biggrin2:

by **MNGophers29** » Sun 5/27/12 12:11 am

LeoPohl wrote:
MNGophers29 wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

Fitting in with the thread title, do you happen to have a list of jokes that you've heard from people after telling them that?

On the bright side, I think we finally found a product whose sellers know more about than it's producers.

You would think so, but alas, no! I do sell manure too....plus lots of other things! I love some of the jokes I do hear though...quick funny story. Once we had a lady come in and I asked her if she needed help. It went like this
Lady: "I need some caulk for my house!"
Me: (immediately turned so she couldn't see my grin) and said "Right this way"
I walked her over to the aisle it was in and one of my rookie supervisors was working in that aisle. I turned to the lady and said "Well, Mitch here is our caulk expert and anything and everything there is to know about caulk, he is your guy" and I walked away.

Luckily he kept it straight with her and she didn't catch on. We try to keep it fun! Coincidentally, the caulk is in the same aisle in my store as the stripper...

by **dxmnkd316** » Sun 5/27/12 11:48 am

MNGophers29 wrote:
dxmnkd316 wrote:I would HIGHLY recommend that everyone visits the U of M Extension page. Tons of amazing information there about lawns, gardens, trees, etc. One of my favorite lawn sites on the web. I've been using it since day 1 of the new house.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/

If you dig into the site, you can find the background on the phosphorus debate in their fertilizer section:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distributi ... g2923.html

MNGophers29 wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

On a related note then, do you have any recommendations on brands you prefer? I know WPoS said fertilizers containing phosphorus are banned in Minnesota,

The chemical engineer in me says any ol' bag of fertilizer works as long as the chemical composition is the same.

I sell Scotts and Vigoro. Vigoro is Home Depot's brand, but it is also made by Scotts. The difference is the Scotts product has all of the chemicals is each granule. Normally when you buy fertilizer you see a bunch of different color pellets. The spread of this ideally is complete, but not guranteed. With the Scotts, you ensure that each element gets where it needs to go. We don't sell lawn fertilizer with phosphorus in it here on the border of MN, but you can still find it at the many ag places in town. I use a farm fertilizer called Crop Nutrients which has a lot of phosphorus in it. My dad has been using it for as long as I can remember and we always had the greenest, lushest lawn. You have to mow about every 4-5 days though. We apply it 3 times a year, early spring, late spring (just put mine on today) and late summer. Our yards are green all fall and are the first to green up in the spring. If you are going to fertilize though, once a spring/summer isn't enough, you have to do it multiple times. The slow release thing is a gimmick too because it all depends on the amount of rain. Since you guys down in the metro don't have access to the same fertilizer I do, go with the Scotts 4 Step process and you will have the nicest lawn on the street! Go to http://www.homedepotgardenclub.com or http://www.scotts.com and you can learn more about it and sign up for reminders. Not a sales pitch, but it helps me.

I am sure you are wondering if I sell fertilizer, how come I don't use the stuff I sell, if I didn't have access to the stuff I use, I would use the stuff I sell. Being I am in farmville up here, I can get it cheap and plentiful too. Anyway, I am a bit of a lawn geek and no, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Fantastic! Thanks for the info!

by **WPoS** » Mon 5/28/12 7:01 am

dxmnkd316 wrote:
MNGophers29 wrote:
dxmnkd316 wrote:I would HIGHLY recommend that everyone visits the U of M Extension page. Tons of amazing information there about lawns, gardens, trees, etc. One of my favorite lawn sites on the web. I've been using it since day 1 of the new house.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/

If you dig into the site, you can find the background on the phosphorus debate in their fertilizer section:

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distributi ... g2923.html

MNGophers29 wrote:
h8red wrote:Thank you "Mr. Know It All"

I don't know it all, but I have been selling fertilizer for 15 years..

On a related note then, do you have any recommendations on brands you prefer? I know WPoS said fertilizers containing phosphorus are banned in Minnesota,

The chemical engineer in me says any ol' bag of fertilizer works as long as the chemical composition is the same.

I sell Scotts and Vigoro. Vigoro is Home Depot's brand, but it is also made by Scotts. The difference is the Scotts product has all of the chemicals is each granule. Normally when you buy fertilizer you see a bunch of different color pellets. The spread of this ideally is complete, but not guranteed. With the Scotts, you ensure that each element gets where it needs to go. We don't sell lawn fertilizer with phosphorus in it here on the border of MN, but you can still find it at the many ag places in town. I use a farm fertilizer called Crop Nutrients which has a lot of phosphorus in it. My dad has been using it for as long as I can remember and we always had the greenest, lushest lawn. You have to mow about every 4-5 days though. We apply it 3 times a year, early spring, late spring (just put mine on today) and late summer. Our yards are green all fall and are the first to green up in the spring. If you are going to fertilize though, once a spring/summer isn't enough, you have to do it multiple times. The slow release thing is a gimmick too because it all depends on the amount of rain. Since you guys down in the metro don't have access to the same fertilizer I do, go with the Scotts 4 Step process and you will have the nicest lawn on the street! Go to http://www.homedepotgardenclub.com or http://www.scotts.com and you can learn more about it and sign up for reminders. Not a sales pitch, but it helps me.

I am sure you are wondering if I sell fertilizer, how come I don't use the stuff I sell, if I didn't have access to the stuff I use, I would use the stuff I sell. Being I am in farmville up here, I can get it cheap and plentiful too. Anyway, I am a bit of a lawn geek and no, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night!

Fantastic! Thanks for the info!

I get all my stuff at Dege's Garden Center over by 3M and George there tailors what you need on a yearly basis and makes sure you test the pH of your soil to help promote plant growth, I have little to no thatch and strongly recommend his programs.

w

by **team22tank** » Mon 5/28/12 9:23 pm

Can anyone recommend a good water timer? For example when I overseed in the fall and want to water a few times through out the day to keep the seed moist, I would like a timer that I can program a few times into while I am at work. No irrigation system just standard house and sprinkler.

by **MNGophers29** » Wed 5/30/12 8:56 am

team22tank wrote:Can anyone recommend a good water timer? For example when I overseed in the fall and want to water a few times through out the day to keep the seed moist, I would like a timer that I can program a few times into while I am at work. No irrigation system just standard house and sprinkler.

I haven't used this, but I have had some good feedback from customers. Its the only non-irrigation system timer we carry and we also have it in a 1 zone or a 2 zone.
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Watering-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Timers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbx4m/R-203062307/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

If you are overseeding in the fall, you really should only have to water once a day unless it is 90 and windy out. The seed should be able to absorb some of the moisture from the soil or at least have it help it retain moisture after watering.

by **team22tank** » Wed 5/30/12 9:13 am

MNGophers29 wrote:
team22tank wrote:Can anyone recommend a good water timer? For example when I overseed in the fall and want to water a few times through out the day to keep the seed moist, I would like a timer that I can program a few times into while I am at work. No irrigation system just standard house and sprinkler.

I haven't used this, but I have had some good feedback from customers. Its the only non-irrigation system timer we carry and we also have it in a 1 zone or a 2 zone.
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Watering-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Timers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbx4m/R-203062307/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

If you are overseeding in the fall, you really should only have to water once a day unless it is 90 and windy out. The seed should be able to absorb some of the moisture from the soil or at least have it help it retain moisture after watering.

Thanks, that looks exactly like what I am looking for.

Another question about quack-grass, do you have any tips for elimination? I have a patch in my backyard probably about 10x15. My lawn is in pretty good shape, picture softball/baseball field type of lawn and unfortunately this patch in the back right corner of my yard. Would aerating and over seeding in the fall eventually choke out the quack or do you have to kill the entire area?

by **solar** » Wed 5/30/12 9:39 am

team22tank wrote:

I noticed that your mowing lines are not completely straight and uniform. You need to work on that a bit.

by **team22tank** » Wed 5/30/12 9:41 am

solar wrote:
team22tank wrote:

I noticed that your mowing lines are not completely straight and uniform. You need to work on that a bit.

This must have been a weekend mow to many cold ones!

by **MNGophers29** » Thu 5/31/12 3:59 pm

team22tank wrote:
MNGophers29 wrote:
team22tank wrote:Can anyone recommend a good water timer? For example when I overseed in the fall and want to water a few times through out the day to keep the seed moist, I would like a timer that I can program a few times into while I am at work. No irrigation system just standard house and sprinkler.

I haven't used this, but I have had some good feedback from customers. Its the only non-irrigation system timer we carry and we also have it in a 1 zone or a 2 zone.
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Watering-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Timers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbx4m/R-203062307/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

If you are overseeding in the fall, you really should only have to water once a day unless it is 90 and windy out. The seed should be able to absorb some of the moisture from the soil or at least have it help it retain moisture after watering.

Thanks, that looks exactly like what I am looking for.

Another question about quack-grass, do you have any tips for elimination? I have a patch in my backyard probably about 10x15. My lawn is in pretty good shape, picture softball/baseball field type of lawn and unfortunately this patch in the back right corner of my yard. Would aerating and over seeding in the fall eventually choke out the quack or do you have to kill the entire area?

The only thing that gets rid of quack grass is Roundup and you will have to do it at least 2 years. Quack grass is a pain in the arse as it has "runners" for a root system and it runs just under the surface in all areas. What you are seeing is a weak spot in your lawn. Quack grass surfaces when the lawn is not 100% healthy or there is a thin spot. Since you said it is in the back corner, I am guessing it isn't getting the watering it needs. The only way to control quack grass is to cut your grass short, almost scalp it, but make sure you water enough when it is really hot (which is next to impossible). Basically its tough to control. Aerating actually spreads the problem around. 2 years ago I moved into a house that had it all over the place. I used roundup to kill each spot and when the grass was dead, I actually used light fluid and burned the dead grass and used Scotts Easy Seed the next spring. it was great, but in the areas I didn't kill, the quack grass came up. I have moved into a new house now and I have a 1 acre lot and have only found 1 clump in the far back corner as well.

So, if it is just one, get some Roundup and a 1" foam brush and brush each individual leaf of the quack grass and keep doing it until it is all dead. May have to do it a couple times this summer and next, but eventually you will kill it back.

PS If youe neighbor has quack grass and they don't control it, you can bet you will have it soon enough, especially after aerating.

Sorry I don't have better news for you.

by **MNGophers29** » Thu 5/31/12 4:01 pm

team22tank wrote:
MNGophers29 wrote:
team22tank wrote:Can anyone recommend a good water timer? For example when I overseed in the fall and want to water a few times through out the day to keep the seed moist, I would like a timer that I can program a few times into while I am at work. No irrigation system just standard house and sprinkler.

I haven't used this, but I have had some good feedback from customers. Its the only non-irrigation system timer we carry and we also have it in a 1 zone or a 2 zone.
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-Garden-Center-Watering-Irrigation-Sprinkler-Timers/h_d1/N-5yc1vZbx4m/R-203062307/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051

If you are overseeding in the fall, you really should only have to water once a day unless it is 90 and windy out. The seed should be able to absorb some of the moisture from the soil or at least have it help it retain moisture after watering.

Thanks, that looks exactly like what I am looking for.

Another question about quack-grass, do you have any tips for elimination? I have a patch in my backyard probably about 10x15. My lawn is in pretty good shape, picture softball/baseball field type of lawn and unfortunately this patch in the back right corner of my yard. Would aerating and over seeding in the fall eventually choke out the quack or do you have to kill the entire area?

BTW, very nice yard!

by **dxmnkd316** » Thu 5/31/12 6:37 pm

Quack grass is a bitch and a half to eliminate. My vote is for the Roundup as well. The scorched earth approach is the only way to go.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo ... grass.html

by **ex_goldy** » Sun 6/03/12 5:39 pm

I once read to use roundup on a Q-tip and tap it on the quack grass. Very labor intensive and for me what this did was leave a dead spot on the ground because the roundup spreads if you use enough. If you don't use enough the quack grass doesn't even feel it.

by **WPoS** » Mon 6/04/12 1:07 pm

dxmnkd316 wrote:Quack grass is a bitch and a half to eliminate. My vote is for the Roundup as well. The scorched earth approach is the only way to go.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/gardeninfo ... grass.html

NAPALM?

W

by **Iceburg** » Mon 6/04/12 1:34 pm

I love the smell of Roundup
in the morning

by **Superstar** » Tue 6/05/12 6:16 pm

On a wall unit AC...with a knob from 1-10...which is the coldest? I'm GUESSING 10 cuz the blue circle that goes around is widest at the 10, but I've had it at 10 on full blast all day and it just doesn't seem to be cooling the room as much as I think it should. So wondering if maybe "1" is the coldest.

And on a related note...when do you open the air exchange valve? I've never had a wall unit AC before so kinda clueless. I'm guessing I want it closed if it's hot out and I'm actually using the AC. But open if it's cool out and I'm just running the fan?

by **The Rube** » Tue 6/05/12 7:01 pm

Superstar wrote:On a wall unit AC...with a knob from 1-10...which is the coldest? I'm GUESSING 10 cuz the blue circle that goes around is widest at the 10, but I've had it at 10 on full blast all day and it just doesn't seem to be cooling the room as much as I think it should. So wondering if maybe "1" is the coldest.

And on a related note...when do you open the air exchange valve? I've never had a wall unit AC before so kinda clueless. I'm guessing I want it closed if it's hot out and I'm actually using the AC. But open if it's cool out and I'm just running the fan?

Try cleaning the filter. Makes a world of difference. You should be able to take the cover of the unit off rather easily, and the filter should be right there, which you should also be able to take off.

by **WPoS** » Tue 6/05/12 8:16 pm

The Rube wrote:
Superstar wrote:On a wall unit AC...with a knob from 1-10...which is the coldest? I'm GUESSING 10 cuz the blue circle that goes around is widest at the 10, but I've had it at 10 on full blast all day and it just doesn't seem to be cooling the room as much as I think it should. So wondering if maybe "1" is the coldest.

And on a related note...when do you open the air exchange valve? I've never had a wall unit AC before so kinda clueless. I'm guessing I want it closed if it's hot out and I'm actually using the AC. But open if it's cool out and I'm just running the fan?

Try cleaning the filter. Makes a world of difference. You should be able to take the cover of the unit off rather easily, and the filter should be right there, which you should also be able to take off.

you got to get it to 11!

W

by **rowshkex** » Tue 6/05/12 11:05 pm

Superstar wrote:On a wall unit AC...with a knob from 1-10...which is the coldest? I'm GUESSING 10 cuz the blue circle that goes around is widest at the 10, but I've had it at 10 on full blast all day and it just doesn't seem to be cooling the room as much as I think it should. So wondering if maybe "1" is the coldest.

And on a related note...when do you open the air exchange valve? I've never had a wall unit AC before so kinda clueless. I'm guessing I want it closed if it's hot out and I'm actually using the AC. But open if it's cool out and I'm just running the fan?

Has the unit been used in the same room before? If not, make sure the volume matches the size of the room... As obvious as that sounds.

by **Superstar** » Tue 6/05/12 11:11 pm

rowshkex wrote:
Superstar wrote:On a wall unit AC...with a knob from 1-10...which is the coldest? I'm GUESSING 10 cuz the blue circle that goes around is widest at the 10, but I've had it at 10 on full blast all day and it just doesn't seem to be cooling the room as much as I think it should. So wondering if maybe "1" is the coldest.

And on a related note...when do you open the air exchange valve? I've never had a wall unit AC before so kinda clueless. I'm guessing I want it closed if it's hot out and I'm actually using the AC. But open if it's cool out and I'm just running the fan?

Has the unit been used in the same room before? If not, make sure the volume matches the size of the room... As obvious as that sounds.

I'm in an apartment...this is just the unit that was here when I moved in.

by **Tee09** » Wed 6/06/12 12:31 am

Why don't the sort of crazy people who harangued my pregnant wife today about overpopulation and how terrible having babies is for the earth put their money where their mouths are and off themselves? Or is it just other people who are "raping the earth" and a "plague upon nature"? Apparently they are special or something.

by **Armadillo** » Wed 6/06/12 1:03 am

Tee09 wrote:Why don't the sort of crazy people who harangued my pregnant wife today about overpopulation and how terrible having babies is for the earth put their money where their mouths are and off themselves? Or is it just other people who are "raping the earth" and a "plague upon nature"? Apparently they are special or something.

Well, they're not talking about THEM, you know!

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